Monday, September 30, 2019

Nehalem Falls Campground (OR)

It was 02 September 2019 when we left Barview Jetty County Campground after five nights. We were both looking forward to peace, quiet, and a more natural camping experience. Margaret had Nehalem Falls Campground in mind; so we left the coast and headed up into the mountains of Tillamook State Forest where we were fortunate to find several open campsites (there are only 20), vault toilets, trash, recycling, and potable water (hand pump). What there wasn't was a cell phone signal, per usual. The fee was $20 a night, and we stayed for two nights.

Nehalem Falls Campground sign. Photo by Virginia.

Although it was 75 degrees when we arrived, shade was everywhere, and I was quite comfortable sitting in it to read. The old-growth trees were a beautiful mix of cedar, spruce, hemlock, and Douglas fir. Our campsite was flat, well-graveled, and fairly private.

The Roadtrek at Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Virginia.

During our two-night stay, I saw Stellar's Jays, robins, red squirrels, and chipmunks. The next morning's quiet was interrupted by a camping couple screaming and cursing at each other very loudly and for quite a long time. Fortunately, they settled down when another camper yelled, "Hey, I'm trying to camp over here!" They left soon after. Whew!

The campground was already very well kept; and that morning a group of Oregon Department of Forestry employees came to clean the fire pits, vault toilets, and to pick up around the campsites.

Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Virginia.

Later that morning Margaret, Peaches, and I took to the narrow, and sometimes intimidating, loop trail through the forest to the Nehalem River.

The trail loop at Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Margaret.

It was a lovely hike. However, in one location, we had to walk past a tree buzzing with bees; and on the other end, we decided against continuing right next to another tree with scads of hornets hovering. There were also wash-outs, lots of tree roots, and large rocks on the trail.

The trail loop at Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Virginia.

The trail loop at Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Virginia.

After walking a bit, we got our first glance of the Nehalem River through the trees.

The Nehalem River. Photo by Margaret.

The temperature was probably in the high 60s; and the sky was gray, which cast a pall over the verdant area and beauty of the river—particularly for photographs.

Steps leading down to the Nehalem River. Photo by Virginia.

Peaches, barely in the Nehalem River. Photo by Virginia.

The Nehalem River. Photo by Margaret.

Peaches on the shore of the Nehalem River. Photo by Margaret.

The Nehalem River. Photo by Margaret.

The one-mile trail looped back to the campground where we encountered the cute lumber shed below. The one thing we didn't see too well (because of the aforementioned hornets) was Nehalem Falls. We got glimpses of them through the trees; they are low falls and actually more like rapids.

Nehalem Falls. Photo by Virginia.

The firewood storage shed at Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Margaret.

Peaches in Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Margaret.

Nehalem Falls Campground is open from May to September. We made it by less than two weeks!

The hand pump at Nehalem Falls Campground. Photo by Virginia.

We left this pretty campground on the morning of 04 September and drove to a cute coastal town I had enjoyed visiting several times when I lived in Oregon back in the '90s. Afterward, we spent a little time at the place that introduced me to the name Tillamook. Those locations will be featured in our next entry. Thanks for reading!

Wednesday, September 25, 2019

Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad

On Friday, 30 August 2019 during our five-night stay at Barview Jetty County Campground, we decamped and drove north to the town of Rockaway Beach, Oregon. Margaret had purchased two tickets online for us to take a train ride south the handful of miles to the town of Garibaldi and back to Rockaway Beach aboard the Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad (OCSR). The OCSR is a steam-powered heritage railroad and nonprofit organization run by volunteers. This route is its regular summer excursion. They have other seasonal excursions, with more being added.

We boarded the train at 12:30 for a 1:00 departure. The entire trip took about 1-1/2 hours, including the half-hour layover in Garibaldi. It was hauled by the McCloud River Railroad #25 (steam-engine) on this route down the old Southern Pacific Railroad tracks (which run parallel to U.S. Highway 101 on its west side, the Oregon Coast Highway) now belonging to the OCSR. I feel I should mention that on the trip south, it didn't actually "haul" the train cars since it backed the four cars south to Garibaldi before "hauling" us back north. The entire train consisted of the engine, one uncovered open-air car, the covered open-air car we were in, an enclosed car, and the caboose, where passengers enter and are given their printed tickets.

The weather was a cloudy 74°F; and although a bit rough and loud ("clanky sounds"), we passengers all seemed to enjoy ourselves. Welcome aboard—virtually—on the OCSR Coastal Excursion!

The McCloud River Railroad #25 steam engine the depot. Photo by Margaret.

The train schedule at the Rockaway Beach depot. Photo by Margaret.

My ticket to ride the OCSR! Photos by Virginia.

Smith Lake in Rockaway Beach. Photo by Margaret.

Tillamook Bay in Rockaway Beach. Photo by Virginia.

Tillamook Bay in Rockaway Beach. Photo by Virginia.

Tillamook Bay in Rockaway Beach. Photo by Margaret.

Tillamook Bay in Garibaldi. Photo by Margaret.

Garibaldi Northwest Hardwoods Sawmill. Photo by Virginia.

Restoration project cars stored at the OCSR Garibaldi Depot. Photo by Margaret.

The McCloud River Railroad #25 steam engine and first passenger car. Photo by Margaret.

A restoration project open-air passenger car. Photo by Margaret.

Looking forward to the McCloud River Railroad #25 steam engine. Photo by Virginia. 

Inside the enclosed passenger car. Photo by Margaret.

Restoration project railcars at the OCSR Garibaldi Depot. Photo by Margaret.

The east side of a sand dune in Barview Jetty County Campground. Photo by Virginia.

The inlet of Tillamook Bay in Rockaway Beach. Photo by Margaret.

Once the train returned to the depot in Rockaway Beach, we stopped in a couple of shops for goodies before joining Peaches in the Roadtrek and heading back to camp. Neither Margaret nor I have had much (me, any) railroad experience; but we have some "railroad men" in our family tree, and riding this historical train had me thinking about them and their lives on the rails.

Barview Jetty County Campground (OR)

It was the Wednesday before Labor Day weekend (28 Aug 2019), and we were very fortunate to have a campsite for five nights. Barview Jetty County Campground is a huge and busy campground in Rockaway Beach, Oregon. The Labor Day weekend is the unofficial end of summer, as far as camping goes. Every site was reserved through the weekend, and there was a lot of traffic, activity, and noise. Margaret and I are both lovers of peace and quiet, and our campsite was right at the entrance of the campground. Even though we were both relieved to have a place to stay and appreciated the amenities, it wasn't our ideal camping experience.

The Roadtrek in our roadside campsite. Photo by Virginia.

During our first evening, there was some sort of kerfuffle at the entrance to the campground, and law enforcement must have been called. So for a couple of hours or so there were flashing lights and people speaking loudly very close to us. It didn't appear to be a serious problem, but it certainly wasn't pleasant. It was a relief when everyone cleared out and it quieted down.

It was shortly after midnight when lights and loud noises of the natural kind erupted as a thunderstorm. For all of the drama, there was only spotty rain, and the humidity lingered into the next day. 

On Thursday morning, a little after 8:00, there was a magnitude-6.3 earthquake about 180 miles off the Oregon Coast. What there wasn't was a tsunami warning. So we decided to go ahead with our walk through the campground with the goal of seeing the jetty and beach. The campground roads are paved, but the campsites are gravel. There are water spigots located sporadically about. There are restrooms and showers, trash and recycling, and an RV area with full hookups. Each campsite is fairly level and has a picnic table and a fire ring. We also had a decent cell signal, which was a treat and a rarity. Since our visit, the campground has added fee-based Wi-Fi.

A tent site at Barview Jetty County Campground. Photo by Virginia.

The weather was in the high 60s and overcast when we started, but it was a pleasant walk of about 2-1/2 miles in total.

The RV area of Barview Jetty County Campground. Photo by Virginia.

We were both impressed by Tillamook North Jetty (just north of Tillamook Bay), which had immense stones with huge logs and entire trees on them. (The jetty was repaired in 2010 with over 1,000 stones weighing 25 to 50 tons each.) The presence of those logs and trees is evidence of the power of the tides and waves in the area.

Near Tillamook North Jetty looking south. Photo by Margaret.

The Coast Guard Tower overlooking Tillamook North Jetty. Photo by Virginia.

Near Tillamook North Jetty looking south. Photo by Margaret.

There were danger signs stating the jetty was not for public use and to proceed at your own risk. Sadly, there were four memorial crosses just beyond those signs.

Memorial crosses on Tillamook North Jetty. Photo by Virginia.

Tillamook North Jetty. Photo by Virginia.

The mouth of Tillamook Bay. Photo by Margaret.

Barview Jetty Beach was gorgeous! To the north, there were mountains and trees right up to the shore. We walked over sand dunes, rocks, and lovely white sand. There was very little litter and hardly any people. The wind was fairly strong, but the temperature was in the low 70s, which was very pleasant.

Barview Jetty Beach. Photo by Margaret.

Barview Jetty Beach. Photo by Margaret.

Seagulls at Barview Jetty Beach. Photo by Virginia.

Sand dune at Barview Jetty Beach. Photo by Margaret.

Peaches at Barview Jetty Beach. Photo by Virginia.

Wildflowers at Barview Jetty County Campground. Photo by Margaret.

At noon on Friday, we drove north to the town of Rockaway Beach, and Margaret treated us to a ride on the Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad to Garibaldi and back. (That adventure will be the subject of our next post!) We browsed the shops along U.S. Highway 101, stopping in a bakery and a gift shop for goodies. We returned to the campground just in time for campers arriving for the 3:30 PM check-in time. That madness continued late into the night.

I very much enjoy sitting outside during the day, weather permitting; but with noisy, cursing crowds of people next door, children running through our campsite, and people washing their dishes at the spigot five feet from the Roadtrek...well, I stayed inside to do my reading, watching, and listening. We made a few special meals during our stay. Margaret continued planning our trip down the Oregon Coast. We each took short walks after our trek to the beach.

At noon on 02 September, we left Barview Jetty Campground for our next campground, which was up in the mountains and a lot quieter! Ahhh...

Friday, September 20, 2019

Fort Stevens & Fort Clatsop (OR)

We left the Forks, WA, area via U.S. Highway 101 on a bright and cool August morning (26 Aug 2019). The highway was dappled with soft sunlight; and after a short while, we had brief glimpses of the northern Pacific Ocean through the dense trees. Near the Quinault Reservation (kwin-ALT), the forest opened up; and we had a clear view of the ocean. We stopped in the town of Aberdeen, WA, for gas and propane. About 40 minutes later we drove through the "Oyster Capital of the World," the town of South Bend, WA. Less than one hour later we were approaching the four-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge connecting Washington and Oregon States over the Columbia River. The bridge and views were impressive, but one thing that was not was the number of dead seagulls on the bridge. It was a sad and gruesome graveyard, for sure.

The huge Fort Stevens State Park Campground was full. Margaret checked with the KOA Resort nearby, but the cost for what we needed was exorbitant. The employee handed us a printout with other places to camp, and Margaret decided to try the nearby Hammond Marina RV Park. Fortunately, they had a site for us; and she paid for two nights. They offered full hook-ups, Wi-Fi, bathrooms with showers (no extra charge), and washers and dryers. Margaret made us vegan sloppy joes and potatoes for dinner, and I uploaded hundreds of photos to Flickr using the pokey Wi-Fi.

The following morning Margaret's iPhone was still not working (hence, all of the photos in this post and the corresponding locations on pages 4 & 5 in this Flickr Album were taken by Virginia). We went to the ranger station at Fort Stevens State Park, where Margaret bought a day-parking 12-month pass that allows the holder to day-park for free in any state park in Oregon. We then drove around the humongous campground, which, in addition to tent and RV camping, also had yurts available to rent. We then drove the short distance to Ocean Beach (or Peter Iredale Beach, as some refer to it) where we walked the shore and observed all that was left of the Peter Iredale shipwreck.

Peter Iredale Beach, Fort Stevens State Park, Warrenton, OR.

It was a rather warm (83°F), windy, and clear day. The beach, although not hugely crowded, was more crowded than either of us prefers.

Peter Iredale Shipwreck, Fort Stevens State Park, Warrenton, OR.

Peter Iredale Shipwreck, Fort Stevens State Park, Warrenton, OR.

Peter Iredale Shipwreck at Fort Stevens State Park, Warrenton, OR

Peter Iredale Beach, Fort Stevens State Park, Warrenton, OR.

After our visit to the beach, we headed to Fort Clatsop in the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. Margaret and I had visited Fort Clatsop once before (in November 1995) shortly after I had moved to Oregon. The weather during each of these visits could have hardly been more different. During that first visit, the temperatures were probably in the 40s, and it was raining on and off quite hard. On this last visit, it was 85°F with bright, hot sunlight. Even though it was definitely too hot for us, we enjoyed our few hours there.

Fort Clatsop sign at Lewis and Clark Historical State Park.

We spent time looking at the exhibits in the visitor center, which is beautifully maintained and amply staffed.

Fort Clatsop Visitor Center.

After the visitor center, we walked the nearby trail, which was largely shaded and had several points of interest, including this bronze statue of Sacagawea (sah-CAH-gah-we-ah) and her baby.


The original fort was the winter encampment site of the Corps of Discovery from December 1805 to March 1806. By the 1850s, the original fort had gradually deteriorated and parts of it were removed until there were no surface traces remaining. A reconstruction of the fort was completed in 1955, but that replica was destroyed by fire in 2005. The current replacement was built in 2006.

The 2006 replica of Fort Clatsop.

Inside the Fort Clatsop replica.

Inside the Fort Clatsop replica.

We were fortunate enough to have arrived in time to watch a reenactment that recounted the history of the Corps of Discovery and demonstrated how to load and fire a musket.

A reenactment at Fort Clatsop.

We walked behind a ranger-led group, which began on the Fort to Sea Trail; but because the sea is seven miles away in a westerly direction, we detoured south to the South Slough Trail and returned to the fort via the Netul River Trail. 

A trail sign at Lewis and Clark Historical State Park.

The beginning of the Fort to Sea Trail at Lewis and Clark Historical State Park.

A wooden walkway on the Fort to Sea Trail at Lewis and Clark Historical State Park.

A guide-led group on a trail at Lewis and Clark Historical State Park.

The South Slough Trail at Lewis and Clark Historical State Park.

Virginia and Margaret on a trail at Lewis and Clark Historical State Park.

After two hours of walking the trails, we were happy to freshen up at the visitor center before returning to Peaches and the Roadtrek, which was parked in the shade with the Maxx Air Fan going to keep her cool.

The next morning we took showers and filled the freshwater tank. As we were leaving the RV park, we were stopped by a young woman who was curious about us and the Roadtrek after watching a video about an RV nomad woman in her Roadtrek posted by Cheap RV Living. We talked for a few minutes, and we gave her one of our "business" cards before saying our goodbyes.

We needed to pick up a few things, so we stopped at the Walmart in Warrenton, OR. On one of the aisles, we saw the woman we had just spoken to at the RV park. She saw us and laughingly said, “Didn’t I just see you two a little while ago?” It turns out she worked at Walmart. What a coincidence!

We continued south on U.S. Highway 101, stopping frequently at viewpoints and turnouts to take photographs. We noticed several "Campground Full" signs that became concerning when we started looking for someplace to camp that night, the Wednesday before Labor Day weekend. Yikes! We were feeling pretty desperate by the time we came upon Barview Jetty County Campground in Tillamook County which was purportedly full. It was late and getting dark, so Margaret tried to squeak us into it, anyway. Lucky for us, it turned out that there were two small, non-reservable sites available. We were quite relieved to be able to have a campsite for five nights to get us through the busy Labor Day weekend coming up. Hooray!

We were quite busy and had a lot to see in Tillamook County. Stay tuned for that entry, and thanks for reading!